On the 12th of May two years ago I posted a very brief statement on Spirit of Place about our visit to New York as preamble to a piece about our stay in Memphis. Right about now we are approaching the 10th Anniversary of that amazing two weeks in New York City which began shortly after we returned from our visit to Sydney, which I documented in detail on this Blog during November and December of last year.
The Spirit of New York City (A Billboard seen from the High Line)
I received a call from my cousin Lynda Gilfillan sometime during either February or March of 2012 inviting Pat and I to join her and Rob for two weeks in New York to celebrate her birthday. They had booked an apartment on 42nd Street and had just discovered that it had two double bedrooms, and wanted us to take up the 2nd bedroom at no cost to ourselves, which despite my protests, she insisted was part of the deal………. otherwise the offer was off. Wow! What could I say but ‘thank you’, and immediately started trying to figure out how we were going to afford the trip so soon after our six week stay in Australia.
It took a bit of fairly deft juggling, but an opportunity like this only ever comes once in a lifetime, so one way and another we found ourselves landing at JFK very early on the morning of the 23rd May ……….. a drizzly, damp day - but who cared, we were in the Big Apple, and we just spent the day walking and walking and walking - looking up at all the amazing buildings that surrounded us and grabbing a bit of culture during a quick visit to the New York Public Library on Fifth Avenue, with its beautifully painted ceilings and well appointed reading rooms.
One of the New York Public Library ceilings - Built in 1854 by John Jacob Astor
Eye catching Skyscraper
We were scheduled to meet Rob at the apartment building at around 7pm that evening, which we did - only to find out that he had been thoroughly scammed - and that while the apartment did indeed exist as it was presented on the internet, the booking was bogus, and all the money he had put down was now forfeit.
A terrible shock, but nothing in life is insurmountable, and priority No. 1 was to find somewhere to stay for the night, and a quick trip through Google told us that in spring in NYC, there is little or nothing available at short notice - but right across the road from Madison Square Gardens there is 1 Penn Plaza - a huge hotel that seems to double more as a Backpackers than a hotel, and there we found a room (albeit a smokers room), with a double bed and the promise of a gurney for the third person. Poor Rob - not only was he the third person, but he had to put up with my snoring as well.
The 24th presented us with the challenge of meeting Lynda at Grand Central and breaking the bad news to her (which Rob preferred to do alone), and finding somewhere to stay for the ensuing fourteen days. This I tackled via the online facilities at a MacDonalds that gave access to AirBnB, where finally we were able to get a two bedroomed apartment on 116th Street East - Spanish Haarlem - at a cost that split between us at least made up for some of what Rob had lost on the 42nd Str. booking.
Pat outside the entrance to our digs at 327 116th Street East - Spanish Haarlem
Hey ….. it wasn’t the most comfortable place in the world - but you know what ……. it did the job and gave us the opportunity to see a part of the City that we would never otherwise have taken the trouble to visit.
A taxi ride to somewhere
We took turns cooking each evening and had some amazing food - virtually always accompanied by a “not too bad” dry white wine from Chile that Rob and I discovered we could get at the local liquor store for $5 a bottle ……… a whole hell of a lot cheaper than anything else that was on offer.
Each day we would take the subway from 116th Street station down to wherever it was we wanted to explore that day …….. essentially the train ran underneath Lexington Avenue almost as far down as Delancey Street if I remember correctly, which was hardly more than a hop, skip and a jump down to the Battery, Wall Street and the World Trade Centre.
Rob doing a demo of something amusing
Lynda and Pat doing the "shoe thing" at Macy's (I think?)
Wandering through the lobby of the Waldorf Astoria
Funny story: The day we decided to visit Wall Street it was raining and ‘just in case’ Pat and I took along a few of those pocket roll up yellow plastic raincoats. I was dressed in my everyday shorts and shirt - and my faithful Crocs. Hardly had we stepped up to the daylight from the station when the Crocs became ice-skates on the granite pavers that covered the area. I had no option but to take them off and carry them much to the disgust of Lynda and Pat ………… imagine walking down Wall Street in the company of an aging Boerseun barefoot and in shorts and carrying a pair of worn Crocs ……… they were very careful to keep their distance and quietly ignore me.
I'm sure that Bull smiled when he saw us coming
Lynda’s fashion sense too was somewhat ruffled by the need to stay dry, with her and Pat basically forced to wear what looked like dry-suit tops off a Cape Town building site. I was sure I saw a little smile on the face of the Charging Bull as our motley crew crossed the road to get a closer look at him.
The girls in their "dry suit" tops
Each day would find us somewhere special, with the abundance of NYC art galleries seeming to take priority - the best by far being the Metropolitan Museum of Art with its floor dedicated to the Impressionists which took up most of my day there - also the amazing American Western art and sculpture - the Frank Lloyd-Wright room and gallery - the incredible Willy’s Jeep Gallery and so on and so on and so on. To do the Met justice one really needs to spend each and every day for weeks and weeks there, building a total mental picture of what is has on offer that one can carry around in a little pocket of the brain for evermore ………….. much as I compiled at the Tate when we lived in London all those years ago …… unfortunately now spoiled by categorizing all the various eras of art rather than the wonderful rambling institution that it used to be. One of my favorite paintings there was La Suerte by Wyndam Lewis - hidden away in a corner near some small stairs as I recall - I would spend ages there, mesmerized by the woman’s eyes …………… sadly it is now nowhere to be found in the gallery.
The Frank Lloyd-Wright room at the Met
Western art at its best - and these guys didn't have photographs to copy from
Paul Cezanne - a couple of details
A detail from 'The Horse Fair' - an incredible study in horseflesh
We of course also spent a good few hours wandering around NYC’s most visited building - the Guggenheim Museum, possibly Lloyd-Wright’s most iconic building. Unfortunately on the day we were there they were busy with maintenance and access to the spiral gallery space was not allowed ………… not to worry, the important thing was that “We Were There”.
The Guggenheim Museum (We were there!)
On another day we hired some bicycles and took a ride through Central Park - all the way up the East Drive past the Zoo and then round and about up to the lake with a turn around at the Imagine mosaic at the entrance to John Lennon’s Strawberry Fields dedication. A very special day, with, I remember quite a bit of time admiring the incredible detail on some of the 59th Street building facades, a visit to the Apple Store and coffee in Trump Tower.
A bike ride through Central Park
The gold plated 'Chopper' made for Trump by American Choppers in the foyer of Trump Tower
Waiting to be seated in the Trump Tower coffee shop
My cousin Mignon whom we had not seen since about 1971 in London flew in from Oregon to see us, and her and her two daughters Meghan and Maria spent some very special time with us on a boat trip all the way around Manhattan and a wonderful walk and talk along the Highline from West 14th Street all the way up to West 34th. They were also kind enough to take Pat and I for dinner at a very special restaurant whose name I unfortunately cannot remember, but which despite the exorbitant prices and really good food had such bad acoustics that we simply could not hear a word that anyone had to say. But all in all it was so good to catch up with Mignon again.
Mignon and Pat in the amazing sewing machine store
Walking the High Line
Pat, Mignon, Meghan and Maria (with yours truly)
One of the best things we did was buy a New York Pass which was quite new at the time, but which got us to the front of the lines almost everywhere we visited - (Top of the Rock / Empire State / Radio City Music Hall and numerous other places) - all the while saving us a ton of money on entry fees - I would recommend it to anyone visiting the city.
Top of the Rock (Rockefeller Centre)
Pat with Robin and Lynda at the Top of the Rock
Times Square - Rob hogging the girls as usual
One of the highlights for anyone visiting NYC is Times Square, and we spent a magical evening wandering around with Rob and Lynda taking in all the Razz-Ma-Tazz that it has on offer. On another occasion we decided to take up Liselle’s suggestion that we visit the Magnolia Bakery in Bleecker Street which she had seen in some movie ……….. boy, did we walk to get there as I had also wanted to visit an exhibition of Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood’s paintings in Greenwich Village and we must have hiked a good 10kms before we found the gallery where I managed to pose with Pat against Andy Warhol's original print of Mick.
The Ronnie Wood Exhibition
On the Subway (Guess where?)
Bleecker Street was a disappointment - we were hoping to be able to relax for a while with some nice Jazz - but everywhere was a total rip-off on entry fees, and when Rob asked if we could look in before paying he found there was absolutely nothing going on. Sad …….. it would have been nice! At the Magnolia Bakery we each bought one of their famous cookies and took time out in the Bleecker Playground to relax for a while, where Rob had us in fits as he shared a table with a local tramp.
Rob unsuccessfully trying to make a friend
A couple of 'Homeboys' showing off their fashion sense
On another day Pat and I visited the Irish Hunger Memorial and the NYC by Sea (Tribeca Sailing) Yacht Club and took a leisurely walk all the way down the Boardwalk to Battery Park
The highlight of our visit was in many ways time spent at Ground Zero where One World Trade Centre was nearing completion. The 9/11 Information Centre was extremely moving and literally had me in tears to the point where I simply had to leave the exhibit.
A reflection of the four of us taking a break at the Remembrance Pools
One World Trade Centre nearing completion
When we eventually left New York via the New Jersey Turnpike on our way to Memphis we looked back at this magnificent tower which at a distance stood up out of the Manhattan Skyline like a giant finger to those who thought that their act of terror might destroy the spirit of a nation.
All in all our stay was without doubt two of the most wonderful and exciting weeks we have spent anywhere, and the company of Lynda and Robin simply made it so much more special than it might otherwise have been. Thank you so much for the invite guys …………. we’d do it again tomorrow at the blink of an eyelid.