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Friday, 29 December 2017

McGREGOR - Almost there

Situated just 21 kms south of Robertson, McGregor almost threatens to be a part of the R62 Route, but doesn't quite make it.  The town's ambience is really quite special, and it was an absolute pleasure to overnight there at the NSRI house which our daughter and her family had rented at the NSRI Volunteer prices which are extremely reasonable for those who get out there and risk their lives on our behalf each and every day and night of the year, particularly when things are particularly hairy and really quite dangerous.

I made a point of getting up at sunrise and walking literally the entire town before anyone other than a few of the locals (who were still fairly high on the previous night's concoctions), were to be found abroad. It is a very pretty town by general South African Town standards, and is (happily), totally devoid of any of the "Pretoria by the Sea" architecture that has totally destroyed all and any semblance of "beauty" or "character" in virtually every sea-side town or 'close by' village other than Pater Noster - from Ponto D'Ouro in the East to Port Nolloth in the West.

For the most part 'modern' Cape Dutch design prevails, and almost all the new homes found in the town slot comfortably into this idiom and are generally quite attractive with very nice gardens despite the drought. There are a whole host of Restaurants and Art Galleries dotted here and there in the main street and one or two blocks off the main track, and a prolific pottery with numerous kilns that churns out something for literally every taste that passes through the town. Do they all manage to make a living and pay the rent ........ I have no idea!

Just a few kms out of the town in almost any direction there are myriad off-road tracks and drives into the mountains which offer views to absolutely die for, and a whole host of camping and other facilities that I had no idea existed in the area - donkey rehab centers, Stud farms and relaxation 'oords'  of one form or another. These are well kept secrets, and deserve to remain in the domain of those who first discovered them and now frequent them, fairly safe in the knowledge that the hordes are not about to descend upon them and wipe out what made them precious in the first place.

I suspect that an "art" culture is slowly becoming entrenched in McGregor which is currently being supported by a fairly well established retirement community, and at least in part by the 'Pink' pound. Whether it will turn into another Greyton or Prince Albert is yet to be seen (already property prices are pretty high), but lets wait and see what happens over the next few years.



























Saturday, 16 December 2017

THE KRUGER NATIONAL PARK

Talk about "Spirit of Place" ............... for those of us that return there on a fairly regular basis there can be few places anywhere that imbibe one with that absolute sense of knowing and feeling the 'Spirit of a Place' such as the Kruger does. 
During the last week in November we had the very good fortune, courtesy of our good friends Peter and Rosemary Davidson, to spend a week at their timeshare at Ngwenya Lodge with Rosemary (Peter was unfortunately caught up in a last minute work situation which precluded him from joining us), with daily trips via Crocodile Bridge into the Park.

Just crossing the bridge gets the anticipatory juices flowing as the hippos give the car the evil eye, and large birds of every description wade and flit here and there. Once done with the formalities of entry the real excitement begins, and irrespective of what game one comes across, the thrill is always the same - happily interspersed with the serious business of identifying one bird species or another ................. during our 5 day visit this time around we managed roughly 95 different bird species, loads of elephant, a number of rhino, plenty of Blue Wildebeest, Zebra and of course the obligatory thousands of Impala with their newborn babies. 

There was one couple of mating lions who I think stayed in the same place the entire week ............. a fantastic half hour with 15 wild dogs (which we had all to ourselves), who simply lazed about and spent time playing with each other before wandering off back into the bush.
We saw a leopard kill hanging in a tree - but unfortunately no leopard. And no Cheetah this time around - but maybe next time! 

We had wonderful Buffalo sightings in the water after the good rains, happily complimented by Terrapins on the rocks just a few metres away. There were Giant Blind Snakes on the road and a great bit of time spent with a Spotted Green Treesnake at one of the hides. A giant snail crossed the road ahead of us and I had to airlift it into the bush to ensure that it wouldn't be run over by someone else. Two sightings of Hyena - both in unusual circumstances - a crocodile attacking another in his territory, and four hippos laying into a fifth that has trespassed in their waterhole. 

There were of course the obligatory babons and Vervet monkeys, and the excitement of thinking that we had made only the 5th sighting ever south of the Zambezi of a Long Toed Stint - unfortunately finally dashed after returning home and closely examining over 300 photographs to realise that it was no more than a Wood Sandpiper that had us completely bamboozled ................ but that is what the Kruger is all about. 

Truly a place of wonder that filters its way into the bloodstream and continuosly calls you back from wherever in the world you might be.


































Sunday, 22 October 2017

THE SOUTH PENINSULA

Cape Town's South Peninsula offers a never-ending number of features and places to visit at sunrise - at sunset - to walk or hike along - to ride through - or simply to visit, relax in, and contemplate the beauty and spirit of the place. What else can one say.

Simon's Town at Sunrise 


Panoramic of Noordhoek Beach with Bather


Looking across Noordhoek Beach towards Kommetjie


Sunset over the Atlantic from the beach


Noordhoek Beach across to Kommetjie from Chapman's Peak Drive


Chapman's Peak Drive looking South


View across Hout Bay towards Chapman's Peak








Saturday, 23 September 2017

HORROR & INJUSTICE - The William Porter Reformatory in Tokai

Set in the Tokai Forest at the foot of the Constantiaberg Mountains in Cape Town lie the ruins of the William Porter Reformatory. Constructed in 1890 the ruins of this reformatory constitute a testament to horrors and injustices that we can’t even begin to imagine despite the evidence still extant there in the form of graffiti and messages on the walls of the cells along with the Judas windows still evident in the dormitory and cell doors.


A full suite of images of the reformatory can be found on my Flickr site:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lance_gallery/albums/72157686985069334 




Referred to here and there as Sir William Porter, the man whose bequest of £20,000 “for the establishment and maintenance, at the Cape, of one or more reformatories” way back in 1878 actually declined a Knighthood. His good intentions however, rather than being of help to anyone, actually caused pain and suffering of unimaginable measure to hundreds (if not thousands), of young boys who were incarcerated in this institution between 1890 and the late 1980’s when it fell into disuse.

Youngsters were crowded into this very harsh prison-like environment under the constant surveillance of warders, many of whom were unemployed or ex-convicts. Warders either played by the rules of domination and subordination of inmates or lost their jobs, and arbitrary brutality and violence was a regular feature of reformatory life.



The boys were let out of the dormitories at six o’clock in the morning and locked in again six at night. The scariest of all is that wardens removed all lights by 20h30. One doesn’t need a vivid imagination to know what took place in these deepest darkest nights of the soul when juveniles were most powerless and vulnerable. Homosexual rape initiated newcomers into the 'under-life’ of the reformatory while younger boys were soon drafted into service, sexual and otherwise, for older boys. Masturbation and homosexuality were common as was fagging, a common boarding-school phenomenon. 

The culture of harsh discipline and violence was unendurable as is indicated by reports of mental derangement, self-inflicted injury and even suicide.  Inmates used cover of darkness to establish a pecking order and plan escapes. Brutal treatment by both boys and warders often lead to attempted escape. One Peter Abrahams fled to avoid punishment when he stole some bread from the warders' mess room. Others bolted into the Tokai forest after repeated beatings. Escapees were often recaptured due to the reformatory’s isolation and harshly punished.  Boys could expect fifteen cuts from the resident magistrate and a spell in isolation on a diet of bread and water.   
The majority of the boys arrived at the reformatory Illiterate. What little schooling there was, was a travesty lasting about three hours a day……the boys being taught by the Superintendent and convict warders who were themselves illiterate.

During the planting and harvesting seasons all other activities, including schooling, were abandoned. Porter’s aim was to remain self-sufficient and this took precedence over its disciplinary function. It was felt that boys could be reformed of criminal and undisciplined habits by work (in other words free child-labour) and be “brought within the ranks of wage-earners and become a valuable asset to the Colony” -  meaning as unskilled manual farm labourers. Industrial training, which involved tailoring, carpentry and blacksmithing was intended to teach boys “some useful handicraft by which they can earn their living after their release”. 
This was a disaster as no consistent training was provided; only a handful of boys were employed for short periods in each activity. Industrial training meant that they made the uniforms for their fellow inmates and effected repairs to the reformatory buildings and equipment. Their training was directed by warders, themselves untrained and ill-equipped to teach. 

Reformatory boys were also apprenticed as farm labourers. A contract of apprenticeship was signed by a 'Master’ stipulating the length of the apprenticeship, generally two years, which included instructing the apprentice in a calling or trade, providing for his education and religious instruction, clothing, lodging and food. 
No records were kept of the boys either during or after their apprenticeship. No provision was made for inspection of their working conditions.  John Graham, secretary of the Law Department, admitted in 1891 that some of the clauses, like those dealing with education and religious instruction, were unenforceable.

What is uncontestable is that reformatory boys did not relish the prospect of being apprenticed for almost half their sentence.  It was not unusual for boys to abscond during their apprenticeship. The fact that the brutal and inhumane treatment in the reformatory was preferable to apprenticeship is an indication of the arduous working conditions on farms. 
Racial segregations started happening in the early 1890’s. A Rev. Marchand who was appointed 'to apprise the Minister of matters affecting the moral control of the reformatory’ was approached by a delegation of boys.  They complained that Head Warder Hartley was 'rough with them in hurrying them over the gravel in the morning’. They had no boots and the stones hurt their feet. The Superintendent was directed to equip all white boys with boots and socks, while the black kids received no such luxury. 

John Graham recommended in 1892 that black and white juveniles should be segregated, both in the dormitories and in their education. A dormitory for white boys was completed at the end of 1892 and the Superintendent General of Education, Langham Dale, affirmed a particular direction for black education: White boys were channeled into industrial training and blacks into manual labour - 'gardening, milking, tending cows, working with horses ... and general farm labour'.  White boys were also granted extra privileges. From 1893 they could remain in the dining room up to 8.00 pm (instead of being- locked up at 6.00 pm. as the black boys continued to be) where games such as draughts and dominoes were permitted. A small library of books was made available to them. 

There is little information about the lives of boys once they left Porter. They were given 1-5 shillings (depending on their conduct inside), a suit of discharge clothing made at the reformatory and their fare to the railway station nearest to their ultimate destination.

(Thank you to Derek Smith - “Mr. Baggins” - for the majority of this copy which I found in his online journals).

Tuesday, 5 September 2017

OLD THINGS _ Items that jog the memory

Everywhere I go I spot bits and pieces that take me back - that jog the memory, allowing recollections of childhood friends, things, places and occurrences to come flooding back. Most often these are very private thoughts that can't really be shared, but perhaps some of these pictures will elicit similar feelings in those of you who browse through them.