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Monday, 25 April 2022

NEW YORK CITY REVISITED

On the 12th of May two years ago I posted a very brief statement on Spirit of Place about our visit to New York as preamble to a piece about our stay in Memphis. Right about now we are approaching the 10th Anniversary of that amazing two weeks in New York City which began shortly after we returned from our visit to Sydney, which I documented in detail on this Blog during November and December of last year. 


The Spirit of New York City (A Billboard seen from the High Line)

I received a call from my cousin Lynda Gilfillan sometime during either February or March of 2012 inviting Pat and I to join her and Rob for two weeks in New York to celebrate her birthday. They had booked an apartment on 42nd Street and had just discovered that it had two double bedrooms, and wanted us to take up the 2nd bedroom at no cost to ourselves, which despite my protests, she insisted was part of the deal………. otherwise the offer was off. Wow! What could I say but ‘thank you’, and immediately started trying to figure out how we were going to afford the trip so soon after our six week stay in Australia. 


It took a bit of fairly deft juggling, but an opportunity like this only ever comes once in a lifetime, so one way and another we found ourselves landing at JFK very early on the morning of the 23rd May ……….. a drizzly, damp day - but who cared, we were in the Big Apple, and we just spent the day walking and walking and walking - looking up at all the amazing buildings that surrounded us and grabbing a bit of culture during a quick visit to the New York Public Library on Fifth Avenue, with its beautifully painted ceilings and well appointed reading rooms.



One of the New York Public Library  ceilings - Built in 1854 by John Jacob Astor



Eye catching Skyscraper

We were scheduled to meet Rob at the apartment building at around 7pm that evening, which we did - only to find out that he had been thoroughly scammed - and that while the apartment did indeed exist as it was presented on the internet, the booking was bogus, and all the money he had put down was now forfeit.


A terrible shock, but nothing in life is insurmountable, and priority No. 1 was to find somewhere to stay for the night, and a quick trip through Google told us that in spring in NYC, there is little or nothing available at short notice - but right across the road from Madison Square Gardens there is 1 Penn Plaza - a huge hotel that seems to double more as a Backpackers than a hotel, and there we found a room (albeit a smokers room), with a double bed and the promise of a gurney for the third person. Poor Rob - not only was he the third person, but he had to put up with my snoring as well.


The 24th presented us with the challenge of meeting  Lynda at Grand Central and breaking the bad news to her (which Rob preferred to do alone), and finding somewhere to stay for the ensuing fourteen days. This I tackled via the online facilities at a MacDonalds that gave access to AirBnB, where finally we were able to get a two bedroomed apartment on 116th Street East - Spanish Haarlem - at a cost that split between us at least made up for some of what Rob had lost on the 42nd Str. booking.

 


Pat outside the entrance to our digs at 327 116th Street East - Spanish Haarlem

Hey ….. it wasn’t the most comfortable place in the world - but you know what ……. it did the job and gave us the opportunity to  see a part of the City that we would never otherwise have taken the trouble to visit. 


A taxi ride to somewhere

We took turns cooking each evening and had some amazing food - virtually always accompanied by a “not too bad” dry white wine from Chile that Rob and I discovered we could get at the local liquor store for $5 a bottle ……… a whole hell of a lot cheaper than anything else that was on offer.


Each day we would take the subway from 116th Street station down to wherever it was we wanted to explore that day …….. essentially the train ran underneath Lexington Avenue almost as far down as Delancey Street if I remember correctly, which was hardly more than a hop, skip and a jump down to the Battery, Wall Street and the World Trade Centre.



Rob doing a demo of something amusing


Lynda and Pat doing the "shoe thing" at Macy's (I think?)


Wandering through the lobby of the Waldorf Astoria

Funny story: The day we decided to visit Wall Street it was raining and ‘just in case’ Pat and I took along a few of those pocket roll up yellow plastic raincoats. I was dressed in my everyday shorts and shirt - and my faithful Crocs. Hardly had we stepped up to the daylight from the station when the Crocs became ice-skates on the granite pavers that covered the area. I had no option but to take them off and carry them much to the disgust of Lynda and Pat ………… imagine walking down Wall Street in the company of an aging Boerseun barefoot and in shorts and carrying a pair of worn Crocs ……… they were very careful to keep their distance and quietly ignore me. 



I'm sure that Bull smiled when he saw us coming

Lynda’s fashion sense too was somewhat ruffled by the need to stay dry, with her and Pat basically forced to wear what looked like dry-suit tops off a Cape Town building site. I was sure I saw a little smile on the face of the Charging Bull as our motley crew crossed the road to get a closer look at him.



The girls in their "dry suit" tops


Each day would find us somewhere special, with the abundance of NYC art galleries seeming to take priority - the best by far being the Metropolitan Museum of Art with its floor dedicated to the Impressionists which took up most of my day there - also the amazing American Western art and sculpture - the Frank Lloyd-Wright room and gallery - the incredible Willy’s Jeep Gallery and so on and so on and so on. To do the Met justice one really needs to spend each and every day for weeks and weeks there, building a total mental picture of what is has on offer that one can carry around in a little pocket of the brain for evermore ………….. much as I compiled at the Tate when we lived in London all those years ago …… unfortunately now spoiled by categorizing all the various eras of art rather than the wonderful rambling institution that it used to be. One of my favorite paintings there was La Suerte by Wyndam Lewis - hidden away in a corner near some small stairs as I recall - I would spend ages there, mesmerized by the woman’s eyes …………… sadly it is now nowhere to be found in the gallery.



The Frank Lloyd-Wright room at the Met


Western art at its best - and these guys didn't have photographs to copy from







Paul Cezanne - a couple of details



A detail from 'The Horse Fair' - an incredible study in horseflesh




We of course also spent a good few hours wandering around NYC’s most visited building - the Guggenheim Museum, possibly Lloyd-Wright’s most iconic building. Unfortunately on the day we were there they were busy with maintenance and access to the spiral gallery space was not allowed ………… not to worry, the important thing was that “We Were There”.





The Guggenheim Museum (We were there!)

On another day we hired some bicycles and took a ride through Central Park - all the way up the East Drive past the Zoo and then round and about up to the lake with a turn around at the Imagine mosaic at the entrance to John Lennon’s Strawberry Fields dedication. A very special day, with, I remember quite a bit of time admiring the incredible detail on some of the 59th Street building facades, a visit to the Apple Store and coffee in Trump Tower.



A bike ride through Central Park



The gold plated 'Chopper' made for Trump by American Choppers in the foyer of Trump Tower


Waiting to be seated in the Trump Tower coffee shop


My cousin Mignon whom we had not seen since about 1971 in London flew in from Oregon to see us, and her and her two daughters Meghan and Maria spent some very special time with us on a boat trip all the way around Manhattan and a wonderful walk and talk along the Highline from West 14th Street all the way up to West 34th. They were also kind enough to take Pat and I for dinner at a very special restaurant whose name I unfortunately cannot remember, but which despite the exorbitant prices and really good food had such bad acoustics that we simply could not hear a word that anyone had to say. But all in all it was so good to catch up with Mignon again.



Mignon and Pat in the amazing sewing machine store


Walking the High Line


Pat, Mignon, Meghan and Maria (with yours truly)

One of the best things we did was buy a New York Pass which was quite new at the time, but which got us to the front of the lines almost everywhere  we visited - (Top of the Rock / Empire State / Radio City Music Hall and numerous other places) - all the while saving us a ton of money on entry fees - I would recommend it to anyone visiting the city.



Top of the Rock (Rockefeller Centre)


Pat with Robin and Lynda at the Top of the Rock


Times Square - Rob hogging the girls as usual

One of the highlights for anyone visiting NYC is Times Square, and we spent a magical evening wandering around with Rob and Lynda taking in all the Razz-Ma-Tazz that it has on offer.  On another occasion we decided to take up Liselle’s suggestion that we visit the Magnolia Bakery in Bleecker Street which she had seen in some movie ……….. boy, did we walk to get there as I had also wanted to visit an exhibition of Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood’s paintings in Greenwich Village and we must have hiked a good 10kms before we found the gallery where I managed to pose with Pat against Andy Warhol's original print of Mick. 



The Ronnie Wood Exhibition


On the Subway (Guess where?)


Bleecker Street was a disappointment - we were hoping to be able to relax for a while with some nice Jazz - but everywhere was a total rip-off on entry fees, and when Rob asked if we could look in before paying he found there was absolutely nothing going on. Sad …….. it would have been nice! At the Magnolia Bakery we each bought one of their famous cookies and took time out in the Bleecker Playground to relax for a while, where Rob had us in fits as he shared a table with a local tramp.



Rob unsuccessfully trying to make a friend


A couple of 'Homeboys' showing off their fashion sense


On another day Pat and I visited the Irish Hunger Memorial and the NYC by Sea (Tribeca Sailing) Yacht Club and took a leisurely walk all the way down the Boardwalk to Battery Park

The highlight of our visit was in many ways time spent at Ground Zero where One World Trade Centre was nearing completion. The 9/11 Information Centre was extremely moving and literally had me in tears to the point where I simply had to leave the exhibit. 



A reflection of the four of us taking a break at the Remembrance Pools



One World Trade Centre nearing completion


When we eventually left New York via the New Jersey Turnpike on our way to Memphis we looked back at this magnificent tower which at a distance stood up out of the Manhattan Skyline like a giant finger to those who thought that their act of terror might destroy the spirit of a nation.

All in all our stay was without doubt two of the most wonderful and exciting weeks we have spent anywhere, and the company of Lynda and Robin simply made it so much more special than it might otherwise have been. Thank you so much for the invite guys …………. we’d do it again tomorrow at the blink of an eyelid.

Sunday, 13 March 2022

MANA POOLS TRIP

A trip to Mana Pools some five years ago required a logistical approach. It couldn’t be a “get up and go” trip like we were used to, with just an idea of where and how we wanted to go. With camp site costs at Mana (then), averaging out at R10,000 for 3 nights it became necessary to pull in another two vehicles to amortize costs, and this meant some pre-planning and arranging to fit in with varying schedules. Also, the distance involved meant making sure that as many other important attractions as possible were included in the trip to make it all worthwhile.


Boswell - the resident Mana Pools Campsite Elephant taking a stroll through the campsite





Butterflies on a heap of elephant dung on the Mana Pools road


Boswell grazing down at the river

We began with a couple of nights at the Hunt's in Gaborone - always a a very pleasant stay that we had experienced on numerous occasions ..... including supper at the famous Bull and Bush, where we had just parked off when one of Klerksdorp's famous earthquakes hit and stretched into Botswana ........... the benches and tables bounced about for a couple of minutes bringing a sense of wonderment to everyones faces and leaving us with something to talk about for the rest of the evening.

A couple of nights ‘stay over’ in Bulawayo thereafter with my friend and teacher Donald Kennedy proved to be a bonus, as I would not see him again - ever -  he passed away quite suddenly in 2018 shortly after our visit. RIP Boet - we do miss you. 

Pat and I also took another trip down to the Matopo Hills and World’s View - where Cecil John Rhodes was laid to rest. We were so glad we did as it is highly unlikely that we will pass that way again, and it really is very, very special........had he not claimed the site for himself I might well have done so - it really is extremely beautiful.





World's View - burial place of Cecil John Rhodes


The next stopover was at Masvikadei upon the recommendation of Hugh and Gail Gurnell. They had lived on this beautiful lake for a number of years and had very fond memories of their time there. 



Masvikedei

From Masvikadi we stopped over at the stunning Chinoyi Caves which have a tribal history all their own. An experience to be remembered. From there up to Mana the drive was fraught with massive trucks and endless roadblocks (we had 42 in 14 days in Zim).



The Chinoyi Caves


Anyone who has ever been to Mana will know how very special it is, and it certainly deserves considerably longer than three days, but making the authorities rich was not part of our game plan. During our stay there Pat and I had our first and only ever required self-rescue event when I left the hard ridges of a trail through some serious mud to better look at some ellies, and we got stuck axle deep in some really sticky stuff. Fortunately there was a small but relatively substantial bush at about 60 degrees to our intended direction. After getting out the rescue gear and harnessing it to the bush I put Pat behind the wheel and with the winch all hooked up we were able to get ourselves out in no time at all. 









Bill and Colleen getting stuck into dinner


On another occasion, while fishing at the Mana junction with the Zambezi (recommended by Hugh), a guy casually called out to us that there was a pride of lionesses hunting a little way up the road ………….. so we packed up and jumped in the vehicle only to find them no more than a hundred meters away back along the road to the river. They unfortunately didn’t get any of the Impala they were after as the number of arriving vehicles spooked the Impala and they became very aware of the hunters in close proximity to their grazing…….quickly moving off in a safe direction, while the lions sauntered on in the general direction of where we had been just a few minutes earlier.



On the hunt



On the road to Siabuwa with Cobus, Colleen, Jules and Bill


After leaving Mana we headed headed along the Binga Road south of Kariba, overnighting in Siabuwa before carrying on the next day to Victoria Falls - definitely one of my favorite places in all the world. Previously we had done the whole helicopter and elephant ride thing - plus the sunset cruise on the river - but whatever  you do there still makes it very special.





Vic Falls (The Smoke that Thunders) in full flood


The next leg took us through Kasane to Chobe where we overnighted at a really nice camp site named Muchenchie on the Chobe River before going into the reserve the following morning. We had no plans other than to try to get to a wild campsite down near the Kwai that Neil Preyer had let me have the co-ordinates of - but with the hope of a stopover in Savuti on the way ….. unfortunately everything in Chobe was booked out …… but on the way I pulled over to let a Landcruiser through and we had a brief chat through the windows, with him advising that we take the airport track as the main track was flooded. I mentioned that we were hoping to make it through to the southern border before dark  when he leant over and asked his wife for something ….. producing a still valid three night camping ticket for Savuti. They had decided to move on, and despite my protestations he would not take any remuneration. So three wonderful nights in Savuti it was, with some of the best wildlife sightings and photography opportunities I have ever had anywhere.



A small herd of Elephants came down to the pan for a drink and spent the best part of the morning wallowing in the water



This magnificent Martial Eagle with its kill posed for us for a good hour or so


This Ellie died that morning (Old age / Illness??) and three young Males lions settled in for an ongoing feast


On the way south after Savuti we tried to access the trail to Neil’s recommended site in Kwai, but it was totally flooded out and we headed instead for Maun. There we found a “not too bad” campsite outside of town and took a sunset boat ride on the swamps, followed the next morning by a very special one hour flip in a really tiny plane over the swamps. WOW!





Seeing the swamps from the air was very special


An African Darter amongst the Lillies

Out on the water everything takes on a different perspective and there were bird shots aplenty


An African Jacana doing the Okavango Two-Step on the Lily pads


A boat heading back to its mooring in the fast fading sunset


From there it was a leisurely trip back to Cape Town with a couple of stopovers at forgotten places ……… but all in all a magical trip.